(5 replies, posted in Hardware)

I found it usually happened for me when the side latch hadn't been engaged fully - the bezel was then tilted slightly to the other side which made the top latch stick. Pushing down on the side latch would engage it properly and the lid would then open easily.


(7 replies, posted in Hardware)

You need to reflash the gas gauge on the senoko; it gets bricked for some reason and needs a known-good image to unlock it.

Here's the tool I wrote to do it: https://github.com/pelrun/novena-gg-tools


(4 replies, posted in Hardware)

The two 3-pin connectors on the battery board (marked +-X) are for thermistors.

If you've got a GPBB, then you've got something that'll do a similar job - provide a whole bunch of IO pins that can run at 5v.

There's only a bit of example code for it so far, though.


I've had the screen flash when I've removed a USB cable that wasn't even plugged in to anything on the other end! tongue


(3 replies, posted in Hardware)

You are using an old version of the upload script with the latest stable kernel. You need to change the upload block size, which used to be 128 but now is max 32. Just find the dd line in the upload script and change bs=128 to bs=32 and it should work.


(2 replies, posted in Software)

That's your problem. Hibernate copies the ram state to swap, so you'll need it to be at least 4G. The default swap is on the SD card and is small because you don't really want swap on SD. You'll need to sort out your SSD and get swap going on there.


(4 replies, posted in Software)

A full open-source toolchain was released a few days ago for a Lattice FPGA, which I think is the first time one has ever been successfully reverse engineered. Unfortunately Xilinx is a whole other kettle of fish.


(55 replies, posted in Hardware)

Nah, they mean my gas-gauge flashing tool: https://github.com/pelrun/novena-gg-tools

It rewrites the flash data on the gas gauge with a known-good image to get it out of a broken state.


(2 replies, posted in Firmware)

I wouldn't worry about it too much. 40% is a good long-term storage target, but leaving it full isn't going to cut your battery lifetime in half.

Besides, as cheap new batteries are available from HobbyKing, you'll never be stuck with a laptop where the only source of replacement battery packs is expensive NOS off ebay that may have been sitting on the shelf for years and already degraded significantly.


(2 replies, posted in Hardware)

The bolts need to be *really* loose as is; the correct fix is to put about 0.7mm worth of washers between the screen and the bezel to stop the blanching.

Apart from that, make sure your bezel is actually flat. I had to unbend mine because it was pretty warped.


(6 replies, posted in Chat/off-topic)

I've just got a cheap $10 laptop messenger bag made out of tyvek: http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/offi … mtmessenge

Not the most padded thing in the world, but it's light and durable. Using the keyboard to protect the screen's an absolute necessity, of course.


(55 replies, posted in Hardware)

Or you can measure between adjacent pins and get the cell voltages directly (between pins 1-2 is cell 1, pins 2-3 is cell 2, pins 3-4 is cell 3).

The big thing to look at when getting batteries from HobbyKing is the width - you need them to be <=18mm thick if you want them to fit in the case with the lid shut. The battery finder tool on the HobbyKing site lets you set this, just change Width(C) to be between 0-18mm.

The biggest battery I could find that fits is a 2S 8000mAh one (57600mWh, roughly equivalent capacity to a 3S 5300mAh), link below. You'd need to cut the balance connector off it and use the one from your old battery, leave the extra pin disconnected. Configure senoko with "gg capacity 2 8000".

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor … duct=16224

It's biggest in capacity and size, though, pretty much eats up the entire peek array. You might want to settle for a smaller 3S battery instead.

The PMIC isn't on the same I2C bus as the senoko, so it's probably not the culprit.

Can you boot into recovery mode?


(55 replies, posted in Hardware)

The +TX connectors are actually for temperature sensing. The balance connector is the smaller 4-pin one on the side of the senoko board, furthest away from the novena board.


(55 replies, posted in Hardware)

You didn't do an (ill-advised) "gg cal" by any chance? Drastically wrong voltages like that is a pretty good indicator.

That first cell reading 0 isn't good though - it's either a bad connection on the balance connector, or a dead battery.

Out of those the only one you will have trouble with is the battery board. I expect when Crowd Supply make the production spares available they will be few and go quickly. Mclien may also do another run of boards eventually if there's enough interest.

There's no real need to get the custom battery, as you can get good batteries cheaply from HobbyKing - just make sure you get one that is 18mm thick or less. I'm using a 2S 8000mAh battery that takes up most of the spare space in the case, but gives me about 6 hours of runtime.


(23 replies, posted in Hardware)

Throttling wasn't present on the 3.17 kernel, it just makes the core issue more obvious. The WX GUI components are really slow and don't tolerate being starved of CPU very well, so it's best not to use them.


(55 replies, posted in Hardware)

Ok, lets tackle the simple ones first. The LCD weirdness is a known problem and is being worked on; at this point if it comes up in the bad state just reboot. Backlight bleed is because the bolts holding the lcd in are tightened too much. Yes, even if they're unacceptably loose. Check the bezel and ensure it's actually flat (my green one had a bad bow in it). Then, putting washers between the bezel and the lcd apparently helps.

Your battery is in good condition; all three cells are above 3000mA. The gas gauge is confused, though, with that 0% charge level (although everything else in that status output is fine). In the senoko console, try resetting the cell configuration, which will also reset a bunch of other internal settings:

gg cells 3
gg capacity 3 5000


(23 replies, posted in Hardware)

The quickest and easiest way to fix the UHD path issue is just to set a symlink:

sudo mkdir -p /usr/share/uhd
sudo ln -s /usr/lib/uhd/modules /usr/share/uhd/

uhd_usrp_probe then works nicely, without needing to ensure environment variables are set properly.


(11 replies, posted in Hardware)

No, that means the battery is utterly dead. Looks like you're another unfortunate victim of the bug in the shipped senoko firmware.  That's probably worth contacting Crowd Supply support to get a replacement.

To get the reflash button trick to work, you have to remove all the power from the system. That means battery, AC, and perhaps any serial cable you happen to have plugged into the debug port, if it's backpowering the senoko chip.

Another thing to try is to remove senoko entirely and plug into the novena using the other power socket - unfortunately that requires a fair amount of disassembly - all the screws on both boards and the SSD, which then means removing the screen to get to some of them, and you'll need to remove the side case bezel to uncover the extra socket.


(5 replies, posted in Software)

Unfortunately, I think it's either accept the binary blob, or sacrifice bluetooth on the wifi card.

Third option is to get a cheap BT dongle that doesn't need a blob and stick it in the internal USB port.

Contact support@crowdsupply.com, they'll almost certainly sort out a replacement.


(19 replies, posted in Hardware)

Something needs to be able to monitor the power button, otherwise you couldn't turn it back on.


(19 replies, posted in Hardware)


Yes, the battery board stays powered, and only uses a negligible amount of power. It happens in normal laptops too, except the gas gauge/charger IC's are built into the battery pack instead of being external, and are never powered down. If you're going to store the Novena without using it for a month or more, unplugging the battery is recommended (and trivial).